Most officials in the Republic of China wear leather shoes. Left for the first Guangzhou Mayor Sun Ke Foreign photographer Morris in China, of course, wear leather shoes Shamian foreign staff will wear leather shoes, ladies wear leather shoes, the end of the hand-made leather shoes as the first to enter the modern industrial Guangzhou, footwear The history has been very long. General raw materials for the leather industry: cowhide, pigskin, horse skins, sheepskin, skins, deerskin, rabbit skin and so on. In Guangzhou, more cowhide and pigskin, far from the source as far as the northeast and northwest provinces, near to cloud, expensive, the two lakes and the Yangtze River, the lower reaches of the provinces. Availability of the market, roughly the northwest and southwest of the leather, concentrated in Wuhan; Northeast leather, concentrated in Shenyang, or by Dalian, Yingkou distribution throughout the country. Guangzhou buyers, go to the above port selection, or set up a straight line Zhuang received in the area. In addition to fur, the leather can also make cages, bags, musical instruments. "Cottage" may not be a slippery leather boots, shoes, some people say that from the West, it is not. Ancient officials wear boots (such as the Tang Dynasty people referred to as "Ji Mo boots" who) should start from the Sui and Tang dynasties it. As Shonan people due to rain and mud leather system made of spikes, rough and simple, cheap and easy to wear. However, the styles and practices of the shoes and boots we wear now may be around the 1840 Opium War. The city's shoe workshop, in the city gathered in the double store (now Beijing Road middle) or Hui Ai Road (now Zhongshan Road, Fifth Road), in the city (that is, Metro) gathered in the high street and its Near the streets, gathered in the West on the upper, Xiajiu Road and Baohua Road and other offices. Known as the "cottage", the workshop is different from the leather shop, the former is a handicraft industry group, and the latter is a store of sales. Therefore, "cottage" can represent workers and shops represent capitalists. "Cottage" is very simple organization: father and son, brother, husband and wife can cooperate, mentoring, friends, clansmen can also work together with the food, that is, an individual "walled" (hanging signs), but also with other " Walled "flagship quite impressive. They do not have strict organization, signs often change, but the number is very large, there are as many as 20,000 to 20,000 people. These people are the "footsteps" of the masses. The famous "cottage" are: Hengbo, Sin Chew, Wong Si Kee (or for four), Xu mark, Yan into mind, adequate, adequate security, no fewer than dozens, of which the most famous and the mark Humbo. Henry Bo's "Walled Lord" surnamed Chen, mainly men's shoes, Xu marked more than the system of shoes. They are apprentices and naturally can avoid competition. But their "cottage" is located in the West Gate, where is the best-selling women's shoes area, so, on the contrary, sometimes more than the master disciples. Hengbo no opinion on this, blindly from the style of shoes, sturdy, financially, or even to meet the requirements of customers, spared no expense carved. I do not know, it co-ordinated with the Lord, a group of young lovers and taste appetite, beautiful expensive shoes, actually gradually popular. As a result, Hengbo shoes (especially leather shoes), often more expensive than ordinary shoes twenty-three Cheng, more than doubled, still each in short supply. "Strong men without weaker", Xu mark also catch up with the teacher's footsteps: slippers and shoes refined mainly to do "workmanship fabric beauty" of the field, so, Chen, Xu two mentoring products, to dominate Inside and outside the Guangzhou Chengguan, spread around the townships, counties, ports, and even marched abroad! These two "cottage" have these best products, natural shoes for the acquisition of the object. Regardless of the next nine road Heming, the United States of America, the foot Anzhai, Wu Zhi Ji, or high street Beijing, the United States new, built a new, such as Britain, ten thousand chapters, Puzheng, Feng style, etc., Order. Usually cash on delivery, and sometimes the first payment, so as to avoid the good hand down the number. However, Hengbo and tag often do not care about the earning of collection, and even one year (Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival, Winter Solstice) to find out the count can be extended to the end, such as stores have difficulties, but also can be extended to the spring before closing. So, the two "cottage" reputation is more flourishing, its scope also see the daily expansion. At first, only two workers were added occasionally. Afterwards, there are often dozens of people who are partners of "walled-in masters" and are constantly working under the lights. But the abacus merchants, only Hippo mentoring kind, on the general "cottage" picky: the soles are not strong, the upper surface is not smooth, even on the line is not smooth, the pad is not stable paste, or rough around the rough, small Then accused, big returned. Also after delivery, not payment or pay part of the cash advance, other goods to be sold after the pay. In this way, turning the worker's cost into the foundation of his own making of money must have aroused great dislike for the workers. As a result, the "cottage" simply sells its own products, and even goes to the countryside for special sales to shorten the distance between the system and the users and recover the profits of the intermediate exploiters. Here, too, the merchants set aside their own workshops, gradually making payments on schedule and not daring to deceive them. Handmade shoes most valuable former workers to do shoes, thanks to craft no machine available. Foreign shoe factories, leather shoes can be a mechanism to save time, but spent more time and effort than hand crafted. Therefore, regardless of the shoes brought back by overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia or the United States, Australia and Africa, or the shoes returned by European students from abroad, they are not suitable for market use or for gifts. Before the Anti-Japanese War, the Czech shoe factory sent people to spike sales, the price set slightly lower than the market (each pair of approximately 5 yuan), and Xu Cheng batch of shops on credit. However, poor sales, after that no longer see its traces, which is not as good as shoe-making shoes example. The city has a "leather hospital" (located in the intersection of Zhongshan Road and the vast junctions) to machine repair shoes, because of its rapid and innovative, and can sit in shoes and reading newspapers, it is not bad business. However, the "hospital" made of leather shoes, generally for the exhibition as usual, the sale can be rare, this is another example of the mechanism of shoes is not easy to capture hand shoe position. Since the end of the Qing Dynasty, the mechanism of leather shoes in the size of Guangzhou City store, must not fight with handmade shoes. Therefore, it has become a one-sided trend. So, handmade leather shoes is better than mechanism leather shoes where? First, handmade leather shoes to wear well. It is light and soft paste, on the foot, make people have a sense of compact but not forced, it seems to be through the socks, and skin together. However, the foundation of the mechanism shoes is very heavy, the amount of pigskin used too much, hard top legs, the burden on the suspect, no soft and happy. Second, it is durable and easy to fill. A pair of shoes can wear two or three years or four or five years, breaking a good pick up, not like the mechanism, a broken unabated stretch to the vicinity, and difficult to make up. The reason is that hand-made shoes on-line drilling small, the lines used are waxed over, the workers pull lines, mouth bites and pumping, from time to time made a result of excessive heat sweat. This is why almost every line is sealed with white wax, while rainwater and sediment are extremely difficult to penetrate, so the organization of the shoe is closely guarded and not easily damaged. Unlucky shoes stepped through the hole, or cut by the weapon cut the line, hand-made hand workers, it is hard work. However, the mechanism of leather shoes threaded hole at large, more lines outside the gap, usually plot dust, traveled into the sand, rainy day stains, naturally easy to damage. When repaired, due to internal loose, threading and difficult meticulous, so that its life will be shorter than hand-made shoes (generally can be worn for two years). Third, it is cheaper, with less material and no transit fees or tariffs (before liberation); so every pair of medium shoes, about five or six yuan will be able to buy, the better about ten yuan On the line. As for top class goods, up to twenty or thirty yuan, that is the aristocrats in leather shoes, can not be compared with the popular products. However, even such a high price, more than the same price of foreign goods also have the advantages of durability and good wear! Otherwise, Chen Hengbo and Xu marked the finished product, how the price is expensive and still in short supply! Although the mechanism of leather shoes, International shoe-like changes, however, is not enough and hand-made shoes the above advantages equal. The results of the overall weakness mechanism shoes. There is also an anecdote in the industry. During the Guangxu period in the Qing Dynasty, there was a shoe-making worker, Liu Baocheng, who was in Ping'an, Xinzhou Township, Huangpu City, far away from the United States on the pretext that "the world is hard to come by". In the western United States, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Seattle settled. Initially to repair shoes for a living, then see the scraps of footwear almost abound, they made the lowest price made of leather shoes should be the market. Due to low cost, low prices, sold very easy. A few years ago, already has a small shop to make shoes in the name of shoemaking is real. A few years later, in addition to supporting domestic dependents, sufficient travel expenses could be raised and a passport was put in place to help its children go to business. That is to say, Liu's father and son handmade shoes, has better than claiming to be "machine country" produced by the United States. Handmade leather shoes made of this waste, not only welcomed by Americans, also welcomed the exhibition in London, won the award. Today, our handmade shoes are more popular abroad than before, earning a lot of foreign exchange for the government. It seems this handicrafts, it goes back to ancient times, the future is endless! In agate lacquer Lane leather industry patent leather also has its glorious history. After the Republic of China came to the ear city from the outside world in the early years of the Republic of China, it was imitated because of its ineffectiveness and unfulfilled achievement. During the May Fourth Movement, there was an overseas Chinese in Taishan, returned from Singapore, who was determined to do so. After several tests and manufacturing, it was succeeded. He lives in the agate Alley West (now six Zhongshan Road), day and night, such as the market, really envy the leather handicraftsman. The old saying goes: "where the benefit, the public will tend to", not to mention this is a good business Shili! The workers, mainly on Ho Pui Street, High Street, and Jing Hai Road, engaged themselves in a remarkable career. The outcome is to catch up with the Yellowstone products, pulled down the price, but also a million profit. Patent leather system of law, in a nutshell, first of all to find a good fine yellow cowhide, after serious shave, followed by a bright tung oil. As for the color of patent leather, there are red, purple, black, green and other types, before tung oil blend, and then brush together in the skin. At the beginning, every time a brush color, non-seven or eight days can not get through, and thus difficult to start, the cost of heavy stagnation, the system and the seller, are extremely inconvenient. Since then, to improve the practice, pay attention to the light brush oil, uniform, Czech, dry skin to take wide, cool, through; brush used, special long hair and soft slider, to about one foot wide, Refers to the point of a piece of leather). As a result, the time will be reduced from seven days to four days and then to two days. In fact, there are 24 hours to complete. Memories when the patent leather began, the shoe store first trial, due to the many users and the effect is good, box, 箧, bag, also infected. Followed by the skin gradually squeezed open, and partially pressed the location of the soil. When the patent leather peak, accounted for more than Qi Cheng leather, at this time to import hard to find a way out. Further, with its cheap, and can be exported to Hong Kong and Macao markets, slightly compared with the foreign patent leather! During the war of resistance against Japan, due to the lack of source of tung oil, delicate yellow leather is also less, the patent leather production paused . When the Japanese invaders surrendered, the patent leather appeared one after another, but the technology did not pass. Without the previous year, it would meet with rifts. The slight ones were as small as hair and serious cases were shelling. Shoes so, others such as boxes, 箧 and so on. At the same time, the glass handbags, glass wallet, glass belt with the patent leather products, but full of the market. On Jinghai Road, "He Tai Cheng" Yangjiang trunk was founded in Yangjiang County of Guangdong Province (Qingyang Zhiliangjiang Zhili Prefecture). The oldest local name (specializing in such luggage), as "Old and Peace", about opening in the "Opium War" before and after, more than a hundred years ago. The county operators of this industry, about more than 10; the largest font size, the signs for the "Guang Tai Cheng", with workers thirty or forty people, the number of operations each year, up sixty thousand seven hundred thousand dollars Tai Cheng has a semicolon in Sui City, called "He Tai Cheng". It is located in Jinghai Road and employs more than ten workers. The business is prosperous. However, due to the use of lacquer (Yangjiang Warm and Dry), the finished product is distributed by Yangjiang Head Office Come for more. This luggage features close, open the lid can cause a gust of wind, as the case of soft drinks open bottle. It is deep, wide, long outstanding, conducive to the collection of fur and cotton, woolen and other clothing. Once upon a time, bureaucrats, gentlemen, rich merchants, and so on, who were wearing large sleeves, were very much in love with it. Therefore, as the state government and its subordinate state officials, when leaving office always love to buy a few, so that "bundled cut and PCT", or to the provincial capital to send Shangguan and relatives and friends, after the spike also produced, gifts Also local materials, do not have to carry away. Spike City Yangjiang luggage shop to "and Thailand into" as large, poly ambitious and Jiang'an Stack, Shun Hing followed. The bank's stronghold in Jinghai Road, Taiping South and Guangwei Road. Camp luggage, in addition to the provinces and counties are sold, but also often transported to Hong Kong, and Pi, Sai Kung (large Western-style suitcase) and the general cage fight the market. According to the old master from Taisei, he said: First, select a solid fir board, planed and nailed the box, with a purple stem (Lithospermum terrier) ground into powder, paste in the box folder, painted with oil (paint Precipitation part), which is its first process. Second, the nail is good and has been oiled box plus the end of the skin (usually water buffalo leather) and Lippi, cut for the tight seam. Again, add dough (with yellow leather), four corners and four legs increased bandage, as a guard. This is also forgiven Complex times, Shi paint (with the two lakes, Fujian, Zhejiang produced, or imported by Vietnam) and separated from the wet. Finally, with both ears for carrying, the safety hole is closed and the brass button is supported at the corner and the foot, and you are done. The most important thing is the compact luggage. Therefore, the wood take the firm, the junction of the gap required, cover and body get along, called "Zi mouth", depending on the size of the box, ranging from inch to two or three inches, when closed, should reach "during which one can not suddenly "Degree. This can be isolated inside and outside the box, moisture from extremely difficult to invade. As a result, the collection of clothes with these luggage, the sun every year, you can not mildew, slightly put mothballs in the box, you can not be moth-eaten. The range from feet two, four feet, feet six, eight feet, two feet to two feet eight, specially crafted up to three feet above, while the feet eight and two feet are often (both old ruler calculation). The usual yards of goods, each with silver earners, about 10 yuan to 12 yuan, it does not have anti-youth and use the bladder (or as "Pi"), the price can be halved. This means that when the government did not change the currency before the war of resistance against Japan (with the ban on the use of silver but not the dual currency), when Chen Jitang replenished silver with two banknotes, its value naturally increased. In addition to the luggage, there are pillow and pillowcase should be the city, also "Yangjiang" title, and more out of the city. Leather pillow for the best-selling goods, each from four five yuan to seven or eight yuan; its range, less to six inches, the largest to the remaining feet. Like luggage, it is also sold to Hong Kong and Macao. The workers in this trip earn about $ 30-40 per month and work more than 9 hours a day. Except for a few days off during the holidays and holidays, there will be no weekly leave due to illness and work stoppages. The end of the year double pay and bonuses, bonuses, generally not, even those who, as the boss of "Enshi", but also can not be an example. However, the profits of the boss are high, generally about 40%. In the middle of the month, if the business is 3,000 yuan, you can raise 30 workers and rent and daily expenses. Like "and Thailand into" workers and employers, where more than ten people, such as monthly sales of five thousand dollars, the boss's net profit when the 1200 yuan to 1300 yuan or more, which is several thrifty skilled workers years to have Ah! The difference between the income of labor and capital, we can see from this. But the number of the boss is often "small profits" self-proclaimed. Besides Yangjiang has a folk song, singing state officials big buy boxes, businessmen big money story, the lyrics goes: a state officer ten boxes, boxes filled with pretty clothes; packing officer brows, sell box full of capsules. This is said to be three feet up and down the big suitcase, each sold for about forty or fifty yuan. When the state officials leave the gold and silver Ying 箧, the natural does not care about the high value of the luggage, and the boss can do a few hundred dollars a big business, net profit of up to 200 yuan, how unhappy its pockets full of reason! A folk song, articulated the corrupt officials and the relationship between demand and the relationship between the merits, but also pointed out the boss's profits.
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